Feast of Sant Joan

One of the many great things about spending a prolonged period of time in another country is that you get to experience their holidays and celebrations.  So let me tell you about Sant Joan...

After reading in my guide book it mentions summer solstice and fireworks and parties at the beach.  Sounds like a great holiday to me!  It did leave out a few details as all happy guidebooks do. 

The evening prior to Sant Joan I was sitting at friend's apartment snacking and chatting.  All of a sudden I heard a loud BANG!  Now I've been hearing a few of those bangs recently at our apartment, so I was curious.  Katie proceeded to tell us that the kids had been shooting them off for days at all hours. She of course just loved hearing bang after bang especially late at night...doesn't everyone?  This sparked off a lively discussion of Sant Joan and our plan of action specifically when to arrive to the beach.  As I was informed going early, say around 9 or so, warrants swarms of unruly children throwing fireworks in any direction including at you.  Needless to say we wanted to avoid this so the plan was to meet for dinner and drinks around 9 and head to the beach around 11 or so.  Ryan and I headed home a bit earlier that night so as not to be worn out of the night that lay ahead though we did have the privilege to hear one of those loud fireworks across the street as we walked to the metro.  Seriously sounds like a gun shot or a cannon.

I will admit I had some building anticipation mainly about the prospective fireworks.  They are tradition for me and always bring me back to my childhood.  A birthday without lots of lights in the sky and sooty smell of gunpowder is simply wrong so I was looking forward to having them albeit a few weeks early. 

The day had arrived and I was side tracked with buying an air conditioner.  You may not know this but I loathe the heat and I find that people do not enjoy the person I become as I get hot.  Ryan was starting to witness this horrendous event, so I was on a hunt for an A.C. for the apartment.  To my grand luck I found one and one on sale.  So rather than napping or snacking or just resting, Ryan and I were hauling the giantic box up our lovely 97 steps.  At that point I realized I had approximately 15 minutes to get ready despite being sweaty and out of breath.  You should be impressed to know that we left relatively on time.

Esther and Gerardo's apartment was lovely and filled with great prospects of food and drink :)  While Esther showed Ryan and I the proper steps for making a mojito, Gerardo was preparing a common dish from Mexico consisting of steak, bacon, peppers, onion, and cheese....I know: YUM.  Slowly other friends arrived and I got to play my favorite game: guess what people are saying.  One thing I have found though is that if the person can speak English, they will commonly translate for me which is very sweet.  Though it is interesting listening to room full of tispy people quickly spewing out rows of Spanish words that I will never understand.  That is an experience all of its own.  Anyways as the night continued and poor Katie texted and called, I noticed that time was passing.  Our original plan of 11 was quickly changed to 1 and then "later."  Now we have all been there where the plan is go to do this and as the hours pass the plan never really comes to fruition.  This was not one of those times.  I soon learned that the biggest tradition of Sant Joan is not just to go to the beach but to stay all night to watch the sunrise.

You can imagine my shock.  I'm used to late parties and good times, but no one prepared me for a 10 hour party.  No wonder I was being fed such delicious foods!

Finally around 3 after a demanding yet pleading call from Katie, we headed toward the beach.  Really we headed for the metro since we weren't anywhere near the beach, just across from the stadium ;)  The metro was an experience as well.  Despite the early hour, it was filled with people whom were almost all drunk and yelling and singing and swaying.  It's a miracle no one fell on the tracks...truly the cars were full of happy, celebrating people and probably a few thieves finding easy prey.  At this point I was walking down the street with a group of 12 hoping that we were going the right direction towards the beach particularly since we had a long debate on the metro street corner about this.  After a quick dance at the random street party we discovered, I figured, this has to be the right way and it was just another 10-15 minutes of walking. 

Here is the street party.

It's hard to perfectly describe the scene that was waiting for me...

Miles of beach covered with people, chairs, blankets, and bottles.  As we began to walk down the long stretch ahead of us (looking for a few others we were supposed to meet up with, namely poor Katie), I was floored by this drunk mob reminscence of spring break Cancun: everyone screaming drinks in hand.  The only piece that didn't fit was the random fireworks and bangs.  This was not what I had pictured upon arrival to the beach although in retrospect, I'm not sure why I had thought anything differently.  Eventually we met up with the others, pushed our way through a night club, and found ourselves a spot of sand.  Now just three more hours to go until dawn!

This is just a few us on the beach...notice the bottle of Coca :)

The feast of Sant Joan was a great one filled with quality people, good food, and most importantly drunken idiots to laugh at.  I don't know that I've ever sat on the beach until dawn especially with thousands of people, but it was a true experience.  If nothing else it makes bitching about staying up til 12 for New Years look absolutely ridiculous!

Dawn had arrived and most of the partiers were leaving most unfortunately this behind...

One other thing: the metro was stopped so we had a lovely hour wake home.  Never have I been soooo happy to see a bed or that new air conditioner.

If you want to read a great description that is much more accurate than my Fodor's:
http://bcnin.com/2011/06/sant-joan-barcelonas-craziest-festival/

Red Tape

I'd like to say that it's Spain that does everything backwards or makes things so difficult, but in reality I think it is anything official.  Let me give you just a few lovely examples...

Banking
So the past few days I've been trying to either transfer Ryan some money or take some more out of my account.  Nothing I've done has been successful.  First I was going to transfer from my bank account into his U.S. one.  Well first I had to wait until 9 a.m. in the states which translates to 2 p.m. here to call.  Then the lovely attendant told me I had two options: write him a check or come to the bank to make a wire.  Clearly neither of those options are possible since I am IN SPAIN.  Scratch plan uno.  Then I'll just pull some money out of the ATM like my lovely bank ladies and I had discussed before I left.  Down five flights of steps, 4 blocks away, and two banks later I discover my bank had refused me.  Okay, I'll just give them a call which still entailed returning the 4 blocks and walking up the 5 flights.  Sigh.  I called the 1-800 number to discover to talk to a person, they don't open until 7, so I had another 3 hours here in Spain to kill without being able to do my errands.  Alright a little sun and reading can't hurt ;)  I called and talked to another helpful lady who put a note on my account though she warned me to wait a hour before attempting to use it.  Just another hour of waiting....I can do that.  So I actually got caught up in my book, Jennifer Cruise is funny, so I really waited a hour and half and then walked back down the stairs and blocks and arrived at the ATM.  I scanned the area around me....always a bit nervous when alone and pulling out cash no matter how close la policia are...Guess what????  It STILL rejected me.  Back up the steps to call again.  The lady of course put me on hold because that is always the penance for asking to get a solution.  She said she called someone and the travel notice is finally clear and I can use the card. So now I'm drink a coke trying to relax myself before I go back down and try it all over again.  Forgive me but my optimism is a bit shot.

Post Service
In my earlier posts I might have mentioned forgetting a few key items in my hotel.  It's the problem with moving too quickly.  That and I think I have a deep set desire to leave my i-pod everywhere (I've already lost one to the plane once).  So Ryan and I have been trying to figure out how to get the items back since it is an 11.5 hour train ride not to mention the cost of that train.  After a few calls and e-mails with the hotel, we finally were given the suggestion to have a postal service pick them up rather than having to send an actual person (thank god).  They suggested UPS, which to me is a comfort zone since we have UPS in the U.S.  We hope on-line to attempt to start this simple process only to spend the next few hours in confusion and loops and canceling 2 transactions.  I'm truly not convinced that they are going to pick it up today since it still told me that the package will arrive in Barcelona today at 10:30 a.m. even though we put in the collection last night at like midnight.  Also when we just scheduled a collection it never had me put in my credit card or when it was going, just the zip and city.  Even UPS is difficult to navigate!  Just send me good thoughts or you may never get any more pictures on my blog seeing as the chargers are in Granada or on a UPS truck.

Spanair
When we were planning our trip to Granada, it turned out that I had to fly by myself since the train was booked.   We quickly booked  a ticket from Spanair since they were the cheapest and times were the best I could find.  Of course a few hours after booking, I received a strange e-mail (in Spanish of course) that said something about the payment not working.  Of course it didn't!  So Ryan had to call them immediately and fixed it all whilst attempting to work.  Ah, problem adverted.  When we returned home, we checked his account to not only see the fee for the plan but another 110 Euro charge from them.  Wtf????  So Ryan e-mailed them about a week ago.  I had been meaning to call them, but was not looking forward to arguing with a Spanish airlines about his bank account.  Finally they got back to him today to say it is a retainer or something and after 10 days they recharge his account.  Apparently the money should be put back in now, but what is up with that??  Since when can companies just charge an extra 100 euros without telling you and then giving it back....strange happenings.

Unfortunately these are just a few of the lovely occurances dealing with money and companies and I guess life in general have to offer.  Though I do think that being in another country clouds it up just a bit.  I have a feeling you all have many of your own similar stories.

Bona Tarda

Updates....................................................................................................................................................

Banking: The third time was the charm!  I know, can you believe it?  When I went back down for that last try it worked and I was able to pull out money. Of course the usual ATM I was going to go to had odd guys standing in front of them, so I had to find a different one, butttttttt I still am now able to pull out cash.  Yay!

UPS: This is did not go as smoothly.  Wednesday UPS called Ryan's phone in the evening saying there was some kind of issue.  Ester, being the sweet person she is, talked to UPS to figure out what the problem was.  It helps when you can easily speak fluent Spanish :)  She said it was something about there being 2 labels and they are going to charge us twice if we don't call tomorrow with the confirmation number...strange.  The next day the package arrived YAY and then I had Ryan call them still to make sure we didn't get double charged.  At the moment all is well and I finally have my chargers again which means PICTURES!!!!!!

An evening stroll

One of my favorite things about Barcelona especially Barri Gotic, our neighborhood, is that everyone is always out.  Walking around the narrow, history filled streets is an enjoyable way to spend any part of your day, but I particularly like dusk.  As the sun is casting a soft glow on the stone, the entire city emanates romance.  Adding to the ambiance is all of the music.  Each turn of the street reveals either a guistarist, an opera singer, or even a string quartet.  Barcelona is filled with music and romance and beauty.


With this as our backdrop, you can imagine why Ryan and I take many strolls around the city.  Just last night we enjoy the cool evening breeze and our lovely neighborhood.  We wandered around a few of the stunning and quite old cathedrals, watching the bubble guy create 4 foot masterpieces, and enjoy a few musicians.  Then we discovered the artisian bazzar just a few blocks away.  I've been in search of honey and Ryan knew this would be the place for it.  The stands were filled with herbs, honey, cookies, and cheese.  One vendor had goat cheese which is Ryan's favorite and we happened to be offered a sample.  I can't say no to free food especially at a sale of this quality.  I will admit though I was a bit nervous.  I don't mind goat cheese, but normally the over powering flavor isn't of my personal preference.  Wow.  I was glad I tried it.  The texture melted away on my tongue leaving such lovely flavors.  These was a work of art, hence artisans I guess!  The kind salesman offered us a stronger option which I was sure couldn't beat the former.  Once again I was kindly mistaken.  I just love with this happens.  The second was stronger, but even richer and more delightful.  Ryan had the same instant love I did which is why I knew it was essential that we rush over the ATM and grab a few more Euros to buy some.  I wasn't going to wait a few more weeks!  Lucky for us we came over just in time before the stands were closed up for the evening and purchased our prize.

After those few tastes we realized something: we were HUNGRY!  This is always a tricky decision that I truly believe every family is plagued with: What's for Dinner?  It is the eternal question for all mankind and it doesn't get any easier being in a foreign country.  We quickly debated the options: go home and cook, grab a tapa, try a burger...  Soon we settled to try the cheap burger advertised at a local bar I spotted a few days ago.  As we walked though we were quickly side tracked. 

There was a small place, which really isn't saying much seeing as almost all the shops and bars and restaurants here are quite tiny, filled with people with a neon orange sign which read: Wok to Walk.  Upon my research now, I've learned they started in Amsterdamn and now are available in 9 different countries.  There goal is to make fast food that is healthy and fairly priced.  Our reasoning?  A line of people and delicious smells.

You don't really walk in because the line is out the door due to the size and volume of waiting customers.  What you do see is a clear glass window with 3 men filling sizzling hot woks with mushrooms and noodles and garlic and sauces.  They quickly flip and toss the ingredients with one hand while dumping in something else with the other.  This site alone won my vote: instantly.  Hung against the window is a huge version of their menu (clearly they expect people to be waiting in line outside) as well as a set of menus just at the door.  Here is their menu on-line although this isn't exactly our menu since it varies for each country or region:

As you can see just looking at the menu, it was going to be a tough choice!  Soon we were inside the building right in front of the wok masters even getting a few random hits of hot oil: we were that close.  After staring at all the choices I finally decided: egg noodles, beef, veggie mix (which had mushrooms, bok choy, broccoli, peanuts, and pineapple) and the classic teriyaki.  Arriving at the register was an exciting accomplishment especially since not only did we have to stare at the men cooking these enticing entrees, but we had to smell it.  Wow.  Garlic hitting hot, sizzling oil gives such a love scent.  Now we just had to wait for our food while watching the staff attempt to call the names of people whose orders were ready.  I think the best was Bob who was called three times and still didn't come up.  The next order was for some girl who was playfully beckoned behind the counter and then "Bob" realized his food must be up as well.  I have a strange suspicion that his name was not Bob and he had forgotten the fake name he listed.  Then my name was called and I was handed this orange box that was incredibly hot and smelled delightful.  We quickly asked for a bolsa and bolted out of there.  There is never a happier feeling for me than a bag of hot, steaming noodles in one hand and a circle of tasty goat cheese in the other.

I do love strolling through the streets of Barcelona.

Domestic Bliss

If you know me well, you will know my favorite store that St. Louis does not have nor have one any where close by...IKEA!  To Europeans,  I'm not sure they love IKEA with the same deep gratitude I do.  Maybe they are accustomed to this mecca of furniture, housewares, swedish meatballs, and cheap prices.  But for me, it a great love of mine.  When Ryan first told me that there was an IKEA in Barcelona, I knew, deep down, I would love living in Barcelona.

This past week I've waiting patiently for the weekend so I could get Ryan to take to me.  I know I should have just gone myself, but let's face it: there was no way I'd be able to carry everything I'd want to buy!  Needless to say as Saturday morning arrived, I was ready. 

Now Ryan was not thrilled with the idea of IKEA mostly because it connects with the idea of domestication and while I may be living with him and he has "settled down" in ways, he isn't quite ready for walking around a store picking things out of a house.  With the bribe of hotdogs, we set off.

After navigating through a few metro lines, we back above ground ready to shop.  Though I will admit I was a bit startled at first.  I've grown so used to the crowded streets, old buildings, and noise that walking around the surrounding area of IKEA was a bit unsettling.  It was too quiet reminding me of the huge empty city in some action movie just before buildings were going to be blown up or something.  It was quite eerie.  Yet once I spotted that giantic blue and yellow building, I knew everything would be okay.  After passing a few questionable looking gentlement offering delivery services we walked into my favorite store.  It was IKEA in all of it's domestic glory and I was going to explore and savor every last inch!

If you are male and reading this and note my father, you are probably breathing a sigh of relief that you weren't accompanying me and that you weren't Ryan.  I will say he definitely earned those hotdogs.   First we walked through the first floor which are always the show rooms.  I love seeing different decors and ideas for all parts of the home and being able to buy whatever it may be right there or at least buy a good smelling candle.    After "an eternity" (I was just imagining how Ryan might phrase it, lol) we headed to the next floor in which you finally aid yourself with a cart and begin the true shopping...

Since I will only be here for a few months, I'm not needing much but somehow wound up with a cart full of stuff.  It's a lot like going into Target for one thing...it just isn't going to happen.  Truly we need a plastic spatula and candles are a necessity unlike the silly light bulbs that wound up in there too.  I have to say the most exciting acquisitions were the eight new plants.  A side project of mine is cleaning and fixing up the balconey while I'm here.  (I hope to do a blog later showing you all the great stuff I've done with it.)  I want to point out that picking out the plants was an enjoyable time for all meaning that Ryan was having fun too.  I know, just shocking! 

Here is our lavender!  It made all the stinky streets smell lovely as we walked home.

This plant just looks cool.  It apparently will flower on the ends and possibly give berries as well.

This one tricked us.  The label includes "ginseng" which we thought, woah we could harvest ginseng.  Once I looked it up, it's just a bonsai, but a very cool looking one.

These guys remind me of the tropics and I have a feeling will get very tall.  I think they will be great by the lounger.

I can't wait to hang these outside...

We had finally reached the sad end of our trip, but not before hotdogs.  If you have patroned an IKEA before, you may remember the cheap concession stand or perhaps their affordable cafeteria.  I've eaten hotdogs from them before, but in Barca they have "special" hotdogs for jut 50 cents more you get pickles which I passed on and FRIED ONIONS....omg delicious!  I know you maybe a bit surprised from my other blogs and "fancier" tastes, but damn these were yummy.  I now better understood my leverage with promising hotdogs.  Also Ryan bought an ice cream in which you receive a cone and a coin.  The coin is to turn on the ice cream machine which I thought was odd.  Like how do they limit the amount people take...is it on a timer?  No.  Instead you place the cone into the holder, insert coin, choose flavor, and watch.  The machine lifts up the coin and "magically" puts the ice cream in it.  It was worth the 80 cents just to watch it.  Dad you would have loved it!  Definitely planning a trip back soon.  If not for more cheap housewares for two fried onion hotdogs.

Now to leave you with an entertaining image...picture Ryan and I carrying 3 bags of stuff and 8 plants onto the metro and down many streets and finally up the five flights of stairs.  Unfortunately there weren't any fried onion hotdogs at the end.

Universal Truths

Bona Nit.
As the dusk turned to evening and evening to night, I've been pondering the right words for my next post.  I've been thinking about our experiences yesterday and how they reminded me of the states.

Ryan is in need of receiving a Resident's Card for Spain.  If you have ever dealt with any government (especially Spain's) you will know that achieving any such document requires LOTS of other documents.  After a few days of filling out forms, making copies, attaining letters, and so forth Ryan was ready to go.  Seeing as I have a lot of time on my hands, I accompanied him.  As we walked there, he filled me in on his last experience there....

"I waited at least few hours standing in line with the hot sun beating down which felt like forever."

Great I thought to myself, this is not going to be fun. Then again when is dealing with forms, paperwork, or government fun??

We arrived to the building and he conversed with a guard outside who essentially said "Yes, this is where you need to go."  Upon entering the air conditioned, quiet, chair-filled room, we talked with another representative who said since he was a student, he needed to go back outside, down the street to another building or as Ryan said "Students may enter in the back."  The sun and standing must just be down the road I thought to myself.  We arrived to another guarded area where Ryan conversed his purpose and was prompted to go to the left.  We arrived in an seating area in a parking garage and took a number.  Silver lining: 50 cent bottles of cold water.  Downside: this was just a holding area.  We only waited about 15 minutes before our number was called 405.  This new official gave Ryan a ticket and told him to enter another building.  Can you guess what we did upon entering this room???  Yup we grabbed another ticket which read 555. 

After sitting down, I scanned the room to figure out what number they were on: 489 only 66 more to go!  Silver lining: air conditioning and seats!  Downside: lots of crying and small children.  We waited and waited and waited and waited.  Luckily we came prepared with my guidebook of Barcelona to read and his drawing pad.  We chatted.  We walked a small child perpetually throw anything around her and drive her mother crazy.  We sighed....but slowly the numbers counted up and soon we were only 10 more, 9 more, 8 more to go.  You should be told soon is the same as two hours here.  On 554 we packed everything up and sat with baited breath awaiting the change....Ta Da!!!!  555 in room 6. 

We entered the small room and Ryan and the woman starting talking.  This was all in Spanish of course.  Ryan kept handing her papers and she kept asking for things.  The only thing I truly understood was tres anos or 3 years.  Then in her gesturing and tone, I could tell something was missing.  Sure enough, he needed some paper from the university stating specificially when he starts and finishes from the unversity.

My new universal truth:
Government always translates to a long oftern unpleasant wait to discover you still don't have all the papers you need.

Everyday Life

Bona Tarda!

These past few days I've started to settle into my life here in Barcelona.  Before I can set out and explore this vibrant, historic city I should probably get a few groceries and finish unpacking.  It does seem awfully logical and a bit like me.  So I thought I would share with you a few of my every day experiences here.

Back in St. Louis as I thought my trip to Barcelona I fantasized and probably romancized my life here though maybe this post will sound a bit romantic to you...

If you haven't gleaned this from my previous entries let me spell one thing out for you.  The most important driving factor of my life is food.  I love it and so it was naturally my first big concern here at the apartment.  I had to eat and without free tapas here in Barcelona it looks like I'm going to have to cook. 

Ryan showed me a grocery store just across from our apartment which is super convinent. 

Before I continue I should note unlike many people, I love grocery stores.  This enjoyment probably stems from my grandmother and my father.  When I was little my grandmother would always take me to the grocery store and Walmart: Yes they were different things back then.  I loved walking down every aisle with her, picking out my favorites, staring as she carefully choose just right produce and snuck in a few tastes to confirm, and told the bagger just how she wanted everything separated.  Although my favorite part was stopping by the front deli area and getting chicken nuggets.  These were heaven to me...my childhood happiness.  As I grew up, my father and I have spent countless hours wandering through grocery stores comparing, noting, and buying delicious foods to try.  We enjoy cooking so we are often looking for some new ingredient, spice, or produce. 

So a new country's grocery store peaks my interest.  My first observation was size.  In the U.S. grocery stores are huge with everything and if by some ridiculous chance they don't have what you are looking for you just drive down the street to a different one and Voila: you've got it.  This is not the case here...stores are much smaller with limited variety of everything not mention that they carry different things then which I am accustommed to.  Needless to say our first trip there, I was just taking it all in and trying not to panic with the unfamiliarity.  Lucky for me my number one priority was present: coke.  Relief spread through my body and I promptly bought four cans to tide me over.

As Ryan set off for work the following day, I knew my task: groceries.  The teacher in me makes me a planner so I brought my Rite in the Rain notebook and began at the familiar close grocer.  I walked down the aisles noting prices of the things I wanted to get and really taking a much closer look.  This time I was buying things to cook and eat not just see the place.  There are many familiar favorites here: pasta, tomato sauce, balsamic vinegar, a few cereals, jam, honey, butter, eggs, milk, etc.  Some of the biggest changes always seem to be meat and cheese.  Whenever you travel, you just never know what you are going to get.  At this grocer, the meat is mostly behind the meat counter which is not very helpful for me since I'm still learning the language.  In the end I picked up a couple things that were on sale and dropped them off back at the apartment.

If you are still picturing a romantic view of life here, know this.  Our lovely apartment with balconey is at the top...the top of five flights of steps.  Ahhhh...now you see.

Anyways, I started my journey to a unknown store that is part of the Mercat de Santa Caterina.  This is another lovely market in Barcelona (I will definitely do a blog on the markets sometime).  Ryan had pointed out Caprabo the other day saying it was larger than other.  Another romantic characterstic of my daily life is walking.  Now Patrick would definitely approve of this seeing as he always ashews cars whenever possible.  Truly I don't mind the walk especially through these streets.  Every turn you can find a beautiful old church, say built in 1300 or some wacky sex shop or Roman ruins or more possible a beggar.  It's enjoyable to walk this city as long as you hold your belongings close and know where you are going. 

When I arrive to Caprabo, I was surprised by the prices.  I expected the place close to home to have the best prices for the most part, but Caprabo beat almost all of them.  This was very exciting for the money saver I am.  I promptly walked through the entire store twice (which still is like walking through half of Dierburgs, seriously) and bought 3 bag fulls of groceries.  I know you are all very smart and have put two and two together to discover while it normally equals four, here it means: Amy is carrying 3 heavy bags of groceries alllllllllllllllllll the way home and THEN up five flights of steps.  Breathless was an understatement.  You should know my arms and shoulders are sore today.

I did title this "everyday life" because I wanted to include more than just my grocery shopping although I sure that was very exciting to read ;)

Another big adjustment for me here in Spain is washing clothes.  Before you get into a tizzy, you should know I do my laundry back in the states as well.  My challenge here lies in the dryer.  You see, there isn't one.  Nope no dryer just a nice washer, iron, and LOTS of clothes pins.  Outside my balcony are lines to hang my clothes or sheets or towels or anything else that may need to dry.  It isn't too much extra work although I've found myself holding my breath every good wind.  I'm sure I'll lose at least one piece of clothing before this trip is over, lets just hope it's Ryan's!

I almost forgot to mention the best part of my day.  It's a toss up really between being awoken by children running and screaming and falling asleep to the seagulls.  I guess I'm destined to have children no matter where I am which is why our apartment overlooks a school yard and yes they are still in school.  About four times a day I can hear every word, yell, squeal, laugh, and shreek although I still don't understand most of it.  The other lovely part of being close to the beach is the seagulls return each evening.  Almost as soon as the children are gone the flocks return calling away.  No matter where we lived here in Barca, there is no quiet. I do admit though, seagulls and a school of children wouldn't have been my first guesses to the noise tho.

Just imagine this space filled with screaming children.

There is one part I do enjoy though, without sarcasm.  I love laying on the balcony, taking in the sun, and reading a book.  At those moments (before I start sweating to death) it feels like a real vacation.

Ciao

Chinese Tapas, Say What???

I'm sure all of you are familiar with the idea of tapas or small plates.  This wonderful creation came from Spain and has infilitrated many places around the globe.  Something you may not know is that tapas were originally small dishes served when you ordered drinks partially to keep the patrons sober.  Originally these were similar to happy hour free snacks in other words your tapas were free with each drink.  The other piece of this puzzle is that Granada is the only main city left in Spain that serves tapas traditionally in that they are FREE!  This translated into spending say 8 to 10 Euros in a night for 4-5 drinks and a full meal.  I miss it already.

Our first experience with this was at Oleum which I have wrote of in a previous entry, Oh so delicioso.  Great tapas there although I normally couldn't help but ordering a meal as well, always huevos rotos. Although here is a delicious pic of my tapa when I went back alone.  I was soooo very relieved to have been given something without fish, let alone something this delicious!

Notice the traditional way they serve Coca: ice and lemon.  I'm in heaven :)

The next night we were priviledged enough to tapa hunting with a true veteran of Granada tapas.  He brought us to Bar Casa Julio, this tiny bar which has been in business forever (aka 1947) and the owner (possibly Julio?) is behind the bar serving everyone.  It's the type of place where you are shoulder to shoulder with people, standing, devouring every morsel and loving it.

This place is known for small fried fishes in which Ryan attested that they were outstanding (I naturally passed).  Next were croquetas caseras or homemade croquettes filled with ham.  They are very yummy especially to a starving Amy!  Though my favorite at Casa Julio is berenjena frita (fried eggplant).  Now many of you may be shocked at this favorite or perhaps you may not enjoy eggplant in general.  Well I assure you, this is just downright incredible.  The berenjenas are sliced thinly and covered in the lightest, crunchiest batter.  To make them even better, you drizzle them with hearts of palm honey....pure heaven. 

Afterwards, Ignacio offered to take us to Chinese Tapas.  Even if you have spent your life in Spain and lived off tapas, Chinese tapas would still be a foreign idea.  We had to partake in this once in a lifetime opportunity.  So just a few steps away were Chinese tapas.  Even walking into the building seemed wrong, like we had stepped into a time warp or alternate dimension.  After ordering our drinks, we were asked what tapa we would like.  Now this is also an exciting development seeing as traditionally free tapas are choosen by the server or chef meaning you don't get to choose your free tapa.  But as always, the Chinese know just how to get us with their all you can eat buffets and now choose your own tapa!  I choose the tallarines con verduras (essentially vegetable lo mein) which I prompty devoured.

This is just a few of the choices.  Others included chicken wings and some kind of fish or shrimp.

At this point in the night our bellies were full of the gratis food and we headed for one last drink.  Commonly in big cities such as Granada and Barcelona people will stand along busy streets with flyers promoting clubs or bars.  We had a few such offers and decided, why not especially with beer advertised for 1.50??  Upon arrival, we noticed the place was empty but then again 11 is very early for Spain.  The bar tender hooked us up with an even better deal: 1 Euro beers and gave us all a free shot.  I think something is wrong with Granada.  Don't they understand we are supposed to be paying them for food and drinks?  Not that I'm complaining, just every time I turn around we aren't having to spend anything...god it's great.

The following night, Ryan and I wanted to continue this quest for tapas.  Truly we wanted Paulina to experience the best tapa at Bar Casa Julio.  Try as we might, it was not possible.  We wandered, thought, and even attempted to retrace our steps.  At that point, Paulina compared us to Jack Sparrow using his compass which unfortunately was quite acurate.  Neverless Ignacio has given us a few tips the previous night so we tried those bars instead.  Across from Chinese tapas was a small sandwich tapa bar.  We received chorizo subs with some potato chips or crisps (depending on where you're from ;).  My only compliant: Pepsi.  Just not acceptable so we moved on.  Next up is a touristy place that is set up like a medival bar with swords and shields on the walls along with new flat screen tvs playing pop music videos.  The upside in addition to having COKE were the extra large tapas. 

Try to remember: we did not pay for this food and our drinks cost 1.80 each!

Once again we scourred the streets for Casa Julio and even asked someone.  I guess I should admit something: at that time we did not know the name of the bar nor the street it was on.  As Ryan was explaining it to the friendly guy, he said "It's this little bar, you walk down a small street and turn into it, the place has been there forever, and the guy who owns it has pictures up of himself from a long time ago."  I'm sure you are now going, how the hell would any of that information help someone figure out where we were talking about?  Well it didn't, but the guy was nice and suggested a place that he thought "might" be what we were looking for.  It wasn't, but we tried it anyway.  Free food: can't go wrong.  This place also did not have coke and served a fish tapa...double strike.  Lucky for me Ryan tried the Gazpaco so I sipped on that.  While chatting away, we had given up hope on finding Casa Julio on our own so we texted Ignacio for help and being the great guy he is, he met up with us shortly afterwards.  Of course we did find Cas Julio before he got there and realized that we couldn't find it before because it was closed when we had originally started our search!?!  Never have I been so proud to find something nor as pleasantly rewarded with berenjenas fritas. 

Ryan and my final day in Granada was spent exploring the city and capitializing on the last night of free tapas before our return to Barca and actually paying for our meals.  We hit up our favorite strip but struggled to decide where to go.  Lucky for us Ryan spotted a sign advertising a choose your tapa bar so we figure, why not?  The place is Bar Tapas 380.  It was a find!  We sat at the bar to discover the bartender/new owner has family in the states and has even been to Carbondale.  He was chatty and funny and very enjoyable, but the highlight for me were the delicious tapas.  The list was long, at least 20 different tapas to choose from and everything we ate was exquisite.

 This was my first choice which was roasted red pepper, cheese, egg, ham, and aioli.  It was very tasty, but our adventure gets better.

This probably was my favorite: Ham with carmelized onions.  Those onions were sweet and savory and I could have eaten an entire plate of them alone!

This is carne con salsa.  I ordered it on our final round after Ryan had tried Squid con salsa.  He loved it, so I figure why not try it with meat?  Good call Amy, good call.  Upon complimenting the cook, we discovered they were from Romania and this was a traditional dish there.  Wow, I need to go to Romania now.

I leave you with Ryan's new favorite wine.  I tried it and it was excellent.  We are officially on a hunt to find it here in Barca.

el tren

I know I've written once before of the woes of travel.  Truly every trip you take, you experience the unknown of transportation and packing.  My biggest mistake this time around was forgetting a few key electronics in the hotel room!  Not a good move, but that is what I get from attempting to pack and check out in under a hour.

Putting that aside, let me rather entertain you with a tale of el tren.  Ryan had booked us on the overnight train so that we could be together while traveling to Granada.  Very thoughtful although 11.5 hours on the train, not always pleasant.  As I imagine you can piece together, we barely caught the train due to scheduling a bit tight, taking a bus in which we had to wait out 8 stops, and not having my train ticket printed ahead of time.  Regardless we dashed to catch another train (just ask Brigitte sometime of the frequency this has occurred). Breathless but relieved we sat in seats that weren't ours so that way we could sit together. Of course this would be a problem later, but let me continue with the lovely patronage our on car.

Sitting directly in front of us was a single guy probably mid-forties, a bit disheveled.  Truly he hadn't caught my attention upon first sitting down.  What did grab my eye was him unzipping his hunter green duffel to pull out an unopened bottle of liquor and taking a large swig.  Okay, I know lots of people have a few drinks during a flight or possibly prior and alcohol in Europe is common, but bringing your own bottle is a bit different.  Soon the attendant came by asking for tickets and exchanged a few words with the man in front of us.  Since this interaction was in Spanish I didn't really get it, but I had a feeling the attendant asked him to put something away.  I assumed it was the liquor, but soon realized he was referring to placing his bag on a rack rather than an empty seat. He did comply although he did take another healthy swig before putting it away.  At this point, we started to wonder if he was just drinking his way to a good night sleep on the train or if it was going to a lonnnnng night.   Thirty minutes later our concerns were answered when he yet again retrieved his bag to take a very large drink from the bottle.  This drink was all more entertaining as I watched the reaction of the man across the aisle.  Oh it was priceless!  The man not only looked surprised, thoroughly displeased but appalled as well.  I will admit it took me a few minutes of laughing into Ryan's shoulder to regain my composure.  Ryan also was trying to convince me to move to the other car to get away from the drunk guy due to this constant chattering and mumbling to himself. Soon we had stopped at which a lovely girl arrived to sit next to the drunk guy.  Ignoring the dimmed lighting the girl proceeded to talk loudly on her phone every few seconds making this ridiculous high pitched laugh reminiscent of an odd hiccup.  Then I heard the magic word "Ciao" in which case I turned to Ryan to give him a gleeful smile as I realized she was ending her phone call.  Ah peace at last!

How wrong I was.  Next the drunk guy started mumbling again in which the girl thought he was talking to her so they chatted about for a bit.  Once again Ryan purposes we move to another car while at the same time the  man sitting across from the drunkard stands up.  Is he planning on leaving too?  I ask.  Oh of course not, he is finding a plastic trash bag.  Why you ask?  Oh for his wife who is currently fanning herself looking absolutely sick.  Ryan leaned over as said, "Now can we go????"  We fled the car as quickly as we could before she could start wretching or the drunkard would cause a scene or that damn girl would laugh again.

The rest of our ride was okay aside from having difficulties with our seats and small child behind us hacking up  his lung.  If we aren't infected with some new virus we will be most lucky.  Though I will say Ryan's first words upon our arrival in Barca were "Never again will we take the train" just as the drunkard staggered past to buy himself another ticket.

All for a little English

Buenos dias.  One thing I don't care to admit is that I can be a bit of perfectionist in that I don't like doing things halfway and I'm not a fan of jumping in or making mistakes.  Needless to say it makes speaking a new language a bit of a challenge for me because attempting and being clueless are not things like.  Even as a small child, I was determined to get it right the first time. Most babies will babble and form sounds leading to words and eventually form sentences.  I babbled some and made noises to the point that my parents started  questioning if I would ever talk.  Then I was speaking in full sentences.  It appears even then I was working out all those words in my head and refused to talk until I could do it successfully.  Maybe now you can see my own personal road block in speaking Spanish.

Yet, I am attempting...well a bit.  Yesterday I went to El Tren (a coffee shop I spotted walking one evening) for breakfast.  The waitress behind the bar asked me what I would like and I attempted to say orange juice in Spanish in which case she looked very confused.  Part of that would be because I couldn't remember if it was taranja or naranja seeing as one is in Catalan and the other Spanish.  Well she immediately found the other waiter who spoke English and that was the end of that interaction. I was grateful since I was starving and wanted food no matter how pitiful my attempt may look.  By the way the juice and croissant were still delicious.  On my return to the hotel, I passed a fruit stand.  In truth I had passed it on my way to el tren, but I did not know the word cherry in Spanish and could figure out a way I could communicate how many cherries I wanted.  To my pleasure, the seller had now posted price signs per kilo...bingo.  I could say "uno kilo" which I did happily and pointed to the cherries since I still didn't know the word.  The man obliged and then asked if that was it.  All I needed to say was "si" which is let's face it the first word you learn in Spainish...soooo very simple and for some reason it just disappeared.  Instead I gestured that was it and he understood and gave me my total.  All in all, I walked proudly away with my cherries feeling that I had just mastered the entire language. 

At this point, my brain was exhausted from all this heavy thinking so I wanted a little English.  Lucky for me I had discovered a list of top 10 places for tapas in Granada which included a restaurant opened by a couple from England.  If there was anywhere here I could speak English, it would be there.  Quickly I mapped it out and headed out on a new mission.  Naturally this place was not a few blocks away, but instead a 25 minute walk according to Google Maps.  I still felt a bit confident from my previous triumph so I decided to try a new street.  As I walked further and the sun started to warm me, I realized I wasn't sure if I was even on the right street and the neighborhood was bit questionable the more I walked.  Alright, time to turn around or regroup.  Of course, I didn't want to just walk all the way back and try another path...No.  Instead I just turned down another street looking hopelessly for a street sign. A few more circles and unease and searching on my map I saw the river.  Whew!  Back on track.  I headed down the right street and began the first true leg of this walk.  I walked and walked and walked, turned and walked some more.  Of course with each new turn the hill grew steeper and the sun brighter.  Beginning to sweat and growing more warm by each step, I finally arrived to Los Molinos...the street destination was on.  Now I should let you know that my resturant was number 5 at the top of the street.  Much to my displeasure, I read the first numbered building to discover I was at 67.  Nothing like another 62 buildings to pass to get a little English and food.  With each stride I started worrying, what if this place is closed or they aren't serving food or don't speak English anymore like all the staff are Spanish.  It is remarkable what hunger and heat and the unknown can do to your head. 

I'm sure you can imagine the pleasure and relief I experienced as I found the bright blue store front and open door at Casa Lopez Correa.  Even better, the bartender spoke English and the menu had both Spanish and English.  Upon the arrival of my coke, I felt pure success no matter the quality of food.  I could order in English and relax! 

Though my luck continued as I ate a truly spectacular homemade meal.  I began with a salad with fresh mozzarella, cumcumber, tomato, and avocado drizzled in olive oil and balsamic vinager.  I ate every bit aside from the tomatoes....still can't get into fresh tomatoes.

Following by a remarkable lasanga, one of the best I've ever experienced.  When offered desert, it was impossible to say no especially to tirmisu which arrived with a few cherries and a strawberry drizzled in chocolate syrup and my cafe con leche.  Ah, sweet victory tasted quite sweet.

Adventures a foot

Hola!  The sun is shining on Granada this afternoon which has the city a buzz in activity.  Personally I enjoy all the people as I gain a false sense of security although I have found a few little coves of quiet to be enjoyed.  Although I must admit that I didn't wander as long as I wanted since my feet and legs have grown quite sore.  They apparently don't understand why we aren't riding in a lovely car everywhere and just walking the accustomed few yards to a door of a shop or restaurant. 

Today I brought my large camera out with me to capture a few of the beautiful buildings and churches Ryan and I discovered yesterday on our way to the restaurant, Corral de Carbon. I'm going to side track just for a moment to tell you that Corral de Carbon was worth the walk and the price.  We ordered a few tapas to start, but our main dish was literally a plate of grilled meat (or as Ryan likes to refer to it un plato de animales muertos).  The thick clay plate was carried out on a slab of wood sizzling and popping.  The variety of meats mostly steak which of course I was pleased with were juicy and delicious.  As you cut each slice you could press it against the hot plate cooking it just a bit more and sealing in the flavor.  To top it all off huge flakes of sea salt were dusted across the meat....if it weren't such a hike and 24 Euros I wouldn't be writing this and instead enjoying the meal all over again. 

This yummy starter is almost dessert like with the fruit compote underneath.  It is camembert cheese fried with seaseme seeds.  It was quite decadent but very tasty.

Here it is!!!!!!!!!!!  The best plate of meat ever.  Those large white flakes that you may think could be onion, nope: Salt!  The meat never tasted salty, just delicious especially after pressing it against the hot plate and soaking up all those juices!  Worth every last Euro.

Focus, back to my adventures a foot.  To explain my soreness my story truly begins at the end of that lovely dinner.  With our bellies full of meat, we realized we needed to pull out some more cash before hitting a bar.  The only catch to this simple need was to find a La Caixa since Ryan didn't want to pay the extra Euros to pull from some other ATM (and who can blame him really).  We first asked a few lovely ladies outside the restaurant.  Now when I say "we" I mean Ryan conversed and I blankly stared at everyone and tried to nod at the appropriate places.  After our quick conversation we headed towards the main road that Ryan remembered seeing a La Caixa on his way into the city.  Quickly we saw a Citi Bank which refreshed my memory as to my own bus ride into the city thinking "Wow, a Citi Bank, I wonder if I could have an account that works in Spain and the U.S."  This also confirmed my own memory of seeing a La Caixa, so we head down the main avenue with a renewed vigor.  Block by block we began to question exactly where we saw the ATM and eventually came to the conclusion that it was much further down.  Pushing on we continued out quick pace with each turn and corner giving us a false sense of hope.  Just for fun we happened to pass at least 15 other banks with ATMs...VICTORY!!!!!!  We finally found the La Caixa and pulled out money.  Now giddy with success and exhausted from our unexpected 20 minutes hike, we set back out to catch up with everyone.  Another few rounds of directions and head nods, we started up a new path.  Soon we were back on the main street close to Corral de Carbon when what do we see???? Oh a La Caixa right past the CITI BANK!?!?!  Ryan and I literally walked right past the ATM and continued down oh another 20 blocks or more to find another one.  The only moment of salvation in this entire endevour was that we didn't settle and pay a fee to discover a closer location.  Needless to say, Ryan bought me some gelato to cheer me up as that expedition.

My adventures today were not near as frustrating although I did come to a few conclusions towards city life here.
1.  While Spain is known for stray cats, everyone seems to own a dog.  I mean even the homeless guy sleeping by the church had three! Oh and every little old lady is walking a tiny dog as well.
2.  Woman like wearing tights or nylons.  Not bright colors or patterns or lace but flesh toned ones with almost anything from causal short shorts to dresses.  You can normally spot them by different colored feet or legs that are just a bit off.
3.  If there is a city square with official government buildings then it is required to have a huge group of hippies living there protesting something. 

I'm off to find that delicious coca cola with lemon and ice...perhaps a few tapas while waiting for Ryan's return.

Ciao

Oh so delicioso

One of my main joys in life is food.  I love to eat and treasure good quality food which is why food words in espanol and catala stick to my brain so well. Of course stringing them into sentences and understanding the dialogue between patron and waiter is a whole other story. 

The downside to this passion is my great disappointment towards medicore food.  While I will tolerate it, I'm not a fan of Applebees and other chain like food.  Therefore when I desperately ordered from telepizza yesterday, I was highly let down.  In all fairness, I didn't have high expectations nor would have I considered ordering it had I not been shaking with hunger.  The sauce was odd, ham fatty and limp, and cheese didn't match the flavors.  My only redemption were chewy pieces of bread flavored a bit like garlic and dipped in a pre-packaged tomato sauce you would get at Pizza Hut (although I think Pizza Hut's might be a bit better). 

After that failure, I attended the reception to the Termis conference that evening to find tables of hor'derves.  I tasted a few treats which were all good, but it wasn't a meal.  After spending a few hours at club, we bid our good byes to find me something to eat.  The time was 11:40 which is dangerously close to midnight meaning most restuarants and places other than bars would be finished.  Of course this is our first night in Grananda with no idea to where to go to find  restuarant so we wandered the streets. Luckily a few blocks away, Ryan and I stumbled upon Oleum gastrobar. 

We quickly made decisions since the kitchen would closing shortly and sat back enjoying the first moments of quiet together.  Then his beer arrived with a tapa.  In parts of Spain, especially here in Granada, it is tradition to serve a beer or drink with a tapa that choosen by the waiter.  This delicious treat is free of charge.  Naturally in Ryan's favor, the tapa was a few pieces of fish friend as well as a mixture including crab and octopus.  For some reason, I passed on trying any of this particular tapa, but waited patiently for my meal.  Ah, it arrived: heuvos rotos sobre patata frites, pinones y jamon.  My title of this blog is for this incredible filling dish that hit spot.  I even passed on the croquetas since I was so very pleased.  The bad luck finally ceased with such a treasure.

Although I should note, I was a bit unhappily that I did not have a camera with me so I could show you this unique find.  Never fear!  I returned this afternoon for my lunch with my camera in hand.  Not only did I enjoy heuvos rotos a second time, but I lucked into receiving a tapa sin peces!!!!  I will post this delicious pic upon my arrival in Barca since I still don't have the memory card. The picture I posted here came from a Picassa album: https://picasaweb.google.com/detapeoporgranada/OleumGastrobar#
Since I am a teacher I do need to credit my sources!

Here is it!  The lovely heuvos rotos sobre patata frites, pinones y jamon.  You should know that it tastes even better than it looks.

Planes, Trains, Buses

One of the perks of traveling is seeing beautiful old cities, eating delicious foods, and discovering new cultures.  However there is one large, looming downside: GETTING THERE.

Now many of you know some of my horror stories with my previous travels, most noteworthy my 36 hour train trip during that lovely ice storm this past January or missing my flight in Zurich due to that damn I-Phone glitch.  Yet I am finding the more I travel, the more I am dreading the process of getting where I need to go especially when traveling alone and overseas.  My flight to Barcelona was suprisingly simple.  Of course it was exhausting and the food was crap and there were like 3 t.v. screens playing movies I was uninterested in, but (and this is a rather large one if you've traveled before) I had no major complications.  No one saying I was delayed 4 days or my reservation is for the next day or I've missed my connection and am stuck in a foreign land alone.  I should have known my luck would be running short...

Some of you may know that Ryan has a conference in Granada, Spain.  His wonderful plan was for us to take the overnight train together, which should be noted is a 11.5 hour ride.  Well the good news is that he took the train...my downside: it was full.  This left me with a few fun options all summing up to me traveling alone.  In the end I booked a flight out of Barca leaving at 7:15 this morning.  The flight is a mere hour and 25 minutes, truly an upside when thinking of the train....yet I still had to wake up at 5, walk the desolete La Rambla (aside from the drunks still partying and the Nigeria hookers propositioning the drunks), catch a bus, get through the airport in Spainish, get on another bus, and hopefully find my hotel while Ryan spent the day at the conference.  I do have to say, it all went well aside from our hotel not getting booked resulting me waiting in the lobby for 4 hours upon my arrival.  This is why I've included a picture of my hotel.  I know it isn't near as exciting, interesting, or as beautiful as I hope most of my other pictures to be.  No, it is a picture of triumph.  Finally I'm sitting on a bed, awaiting a hot meal, inside from the rain.

Victory, sweet victory!

I Have Arrived!

Hola! I arrived in Spain to find sunny, beautiful weather and a city that surprises you as much as grabs at you.  Wandering along La Rambla or almost any street, you will find a plethora of people in every nationality, grouping, and style you can imagine.  Why there was even a guy dressed as an "oversized" Baywatch girl chatting up tables.  The unexpected lives in Barca and as you amble along you feel the potential and unknown building up until you are shocked or amazed once more.   Dull is not a word that fits this city or people who reside here.


What have I done these first few days?  Of course, way too much and not enough...
-I ate a cheap, thrifty kabob on the Post Office steps around 11 p.m. watching every known person walking about including small children and an entire slew of rollar bladers!    
-I had my first pitcher of Sangria which far super seceded anything back home even though it was just average for Barca.
  -Climbed way too many steps to enjoy free day at the Musea Nacional d'Art de Catalunya especially since I was a bit hungover from the Sangria.  Though know that it was worth it: LOTS of art, beautiful building, painted ceilings, and outside oasis of trees, shrubs, flowers, and ice cream :)
-Devoured some yummy tapas at Taller De Tapas.  The chorizo was exceptional of course as well as the traditional pa amb tomaquet (bread rubbed with fresh tomatoes and olive oil).
-Wandered through La Boqueria avoiding the fish, as I'm sure most of you aren't surprised.  Ryan brought my attention to fresh squeezed juices of every fruit imaginable...I had watermelon which I promptly slurped down and regretted not buying another.
-Walked through many placas, seen Roman ruins, observed about a billion gorgeous buildings and have only taken a few pictures.  I know, I know...pictures are next on the list.


I'm off to eat the rest of these cherries, take in a little more sun, and pack for Granada.  It should be a fun week.

adéu